Microplastic — Fashion’s Hidden Menace
Key Takeaways:
Synthetic textiles shed microplastics or microfibers when washed, posing a threat to the oceans, aquatic lives, and human beings.
The increase in microplastics are fueled by the explosive growth of fast fashion. It is found that around 50% of clothes listed online consist wholly of virgin plastic-based fabric.
Brands and consumers alike share the responsibility to mitigate the release and presence of microplastics in the environment.
Most discussions around plastic pollution evoke images of plastic bottles washed up on shores, seals entangled in plastic rings and fishing nets, or that heart-wrenching video of a straw being removed from a sea turtle.
While that shows the extent of the consequences of our inclination towards plastic, it’s just part of a much bigger issue. As such visible signs of plastic pollution usually hog the spotlight, an oft-forgotten threat lurking in almost every aspect of our lives is accumulating, that is microplastics.
What are Microplastics?
Microplastics are the microscopic plastic particles that are less than 5mm in length, coursing through the ocean and air as we speak. So where do they come from? Microplastics come from a variety of sources, and are shed when a product that contains plastic breaks down into tiny fragments because of environmental conditions or friction. Some major sources of microplastics include tyres (synthetic rubber releases microplastics with friction), plastic pellets, road markings, personal care products, and textiles. In this article we’ll zone in on how clothes and textiles make up a part of the world’s plastic pollution.
Walk into any store and look at the labels on the clothes, chances are that you’ll find words like “polyester”, “spandex”, “acrylic”, “nylon”, “polyamide”, etc. Those are some of the more common plastic materials used in textiles for clothes, not to forget add-ons like buttons, sequins, zippers etc. These plastic-based, synthetic clothing when washed, releases microfibres (thin hair-like plastic fibres, a type of microplastic) into wastewaters. The fibers present in the wastewaters make their way into our rivers and oceans, as existing sewage treatment facilities are unable to filter them out due to their microscopic size.
Impacts of Microplastics
On the Environment & Marine Life
The phenomenon of sea turtles ingesting plastic bags (as turtles mistook the bags for jellyfish) is sadly, all too common. But that’s just one part of the visible signs of plastic problems making waves in the seas. The almost invisible threat that is microplastics, are being swallowed by marine life unknowingly due to their small size; and can have disastrous effects on the entire ecosystem.
The effects of microplastic or microfiber ingestion are catastrophic; causing a multitude of health issues and injuries. Starvation, gut blockage, changes in oxygen levels, stunted growth, and altered feeding behavior etc are just a few to name. If that wasn’t bad enough, microfibers can absorb chemicals that are present in the water or sewage sludge. Moreover, plastics aren’t made up of a single component. It comes in many forms and contains a wide range of additives. Additives that are applied to clothing for certain properties (eg: plasticisers to improve flexibility, or antimicrobial agents to inhibit bacteria, water repellents, color pigments, etc) are contained inside the microfibers, which flow freely in our waters. These chemicals can leach from the plastic into the environment, which then go straight into the bloodstream of animals.
On the Human Health
The effects of microplastics travel up the food chain, and make their way to the air we breathe and into our plates! It is estimated that the average European bivalve( eg.: mussels, oysters, and clams) consumers ingest up to 11,000 microplastic particles every year!
Some of the additives that are present in synthetic apparel are considered endocrine disruptors —chemicals that interfere with normal hormone functions, even contributing to weight gain. Flame retardant additives may impede brain development in fetuses and children; other compounds that cling to plastics are also known to be able to cause cancer or birth defects.
Nevertheless, studying the impacts of marine microplastics on human health is challenging, because people can’t be asked to eat plastics for experiments. This is simply because plastics and their additives respond differently depending on physical surroundings and chemical makeups, and because their characteristics may change as creatures along the food chain consume, metabolize, or excrete them.
The Plastic Fabric of Fast Fashion Culture
A dress that is made of 100% virgin polyester that only lasts a few wears, actually isn’t so different from disposable plastic packaging and straws, if you think about it.
The United Kingdom’s Royal Society for Arts, Manufacturers and Commerce (RSA) reported that roughly 50% of clothes sold online are made entirely from virgin polyester. The RSA analyzed over 10,000 recent items from leading online fast fashion retailers, including Boohoo, ASOS, Missguided, and PrettyLittleThing over a two-week period. On average, around 80% of items sold in the aforementioned websites are composed of at least half virgin plastic, blended with other materials. Most of the time, articles of clothing consisting of both recycled and virgin plastics are labeled “recycled”, which is misleading towards its consumers. It is also rather deceitful towards eco-conscious consumers who intend to make a better purchase.
For the most part, the rapid ascent of fast fashion correlates to the increase in virgin plastic production, as well as its dirt-cheap prices. According to a report published in 2017 by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, it is stated that clothing in 2015 was composed of 63% virgin plastic(!), and less than 3% of recycled content.
The RSA report cites an MIT study that states "the average polyester shirt produces 5.5kg of CO2, 20% more than its cotton equivalent, and the same emissions as driving 13 miles in a passenger car. In 2015, polyester production was responsible for 700 million tonnes of CO2, the equivalent of the annual carbon emissions of Germany."
With the increased number of collections, comes quicker turnaround of new styles and lower prices to sell faster. This fuels the demand of synthetic garment manufacturing in order to keep up with the multiple trends and seasons.
Drowning in Plastic
According to a report released by the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature), it is estimated that 35% of all microplastics in the world’s oceans came from the laundering of synthetic textiles.
It has been found that a typical washing cycle could release more than 700,000 microfibres into the environment. Although different studies have suggested different estimates; from 1900 fibers from a single synthetic garment wash as stated in a 2011 paper, to 1 million fibres from washing polyester fleece from a study in 2017. Regardless of the amount, it all adds up, and worse, they don’t break down in the ocean. While larger pieces of plastic will be caught by water treatment plants, smaller plastic particles go through the filtration system. A study observes that treatment plants can release up to 40% of the microfibres they receive into lakes, rivers, and the ocean. Most treatment plants are not mandated to capture microfibres either. And once plastic fibers are in the oceans, there’s no effective way to remove them.
If the fashion industry continues as it is, a whopping 22 million tonnes of microfibres will enter our oceans between the years 2015 and 2050. A paper in Environmental Science and Technology estimated that “a population of 100,000 people would produce approximately 1.02 kilograms of fibers each day.” That’s 793 pounds per year of plastic shards that are just barely perceptible to the naked eye.
Finding Solutions
From the way fabrics are processed, the materials used, and the life-cycle of a clothing all play a role in the amount of microplastics shed into our surroundings. The solutions need to be designed from the beginning of the garment creation process, and they can start with fashion labels and manufacturers.
What can Fashion Brands & Textile Manufacturers Do
Use textiles that have been tested to ensure minimal release of microfibres
The length of the yarn, type of weave and finishing seams may all be factors affecting shedding rates. Brands, suppliers, and manufacturers can come together to develop fabric that releases the least amount of microfibres possible.
Design & innovate textile production methods to minimize shedding
There are several methods that can be applied to reduce microfibre shedding, such as brushing the material, using laser and ultrasound cutting, coatings and pre-washing garments.
Ensure durability of their products
There are several methods that can be applied to reduce microfibre shedding, such as brushing the material, using laser and ultrasound cutting, coatings and pre-washing garments.
Consider a circular system for their products
Creating clothing that lasts after multiple wears and wash ensures it stays out of the landfill for as long as possible. With time, the brand will be associated with quality clothing, instead of cheap, disposable garments.
The afterlife of the garments should be taken into consideration when they’re old and worn. Can they be recycled and repurposed? Will the brand set up collection centres to allow customers to hand in their old clothes in exchange for rewards? Designing products with the end of their shelf life in mind can aid in reducing textile waste, not just reducing plastic pollution.
What Can You Do?
Change up your washing practices
Wash less, or wash only in full loads of clothes to reduce microfibre shedding and energy consumption costs.
Install a microfiber filter such as the Cora Ball, or the GuppyFriend washing bag, of the Lint LUV-R (a self-installed washing machine filter) . Those filters capture the microfibres that are detached from your laundry, and have been shown to reduce the number of microfibres in wastewater by an average of 26% and 87%. Although these won’t be the be-all-end-all solution to plastic pollution, we’d still want to divert as much microplastics from entering the environment.
Buy less, buy better
Prioritizing quality over quantity by choosing more durable garments, and making less impulsive purchases can lower the amount of waste, thereby lessening microplastics seeping into soils and waterways. We need to rethink the way we perceive shopping; whether we do it as a recreational hobby or we buy an article of clothing because it’s necessary.
Raise awareness
Organising campaigns is an effective way to drive the message. Items like plastic straws and plastic bags were once ubiquitous until everyone has come to realize the impact they have on the environment, and governments subsequently banned their use. The same goes for spreading the word about microplastic pollution. Campaigning by addressing the root causes and effects of microplastics and synthetic clothing drives the message home for consumers, allowing them to reconsider their purchases and practices.
Demand brands to do better
While there are steps that consumers can do to limit the release of microfibers, brands and manufacturers should be held accountable too. Despite installing microfibre catching devices, there is no guarantee that they won’t find their way into the environment through other means. Therefore the companies that are making synthetic clothing and accessories should take the ultimate responsibility for putting a stop to the pollution. As consumers, we have a lot of power in influencing the decision-making of the brands we buy from. Asking brands what they are doing to curb microfibre shedding from their products, and where do they source their materials from is a start.
The impacts of microfibres on the environment can be mitigated, but only with policymakers, brands, industry, NGOs and individuals working together to create systematic and substantial changes.
So it's not only about lowering demand and consumption that matters. The world’s dependence on synthetic materials must change to effectively limit the release of microfibres. But until that happens, innovation of new materials and production technologies play a vital role in decreasing the industry’s environmental impact. However, much more research is needed to define best practices in microfibre reduction, and develop industry-wide solutions to get rid of the pollutant from the beginning.
We hope you enjoy our in-depth write-up about microplastics! We always strive to do better for our planet, our ecosystems, and our communities, through our articles or through our products. If you’re interested in transitioning to a more sustainable clothing production process, let us know how we can help you in your journey here!
